If you have had radon testing done on your home, and have found elevated levels of radon, your next step is radon removal. To minimize health risks and your exposure to radon, you will need a radon mitigation system installed.
At Radon Defense, our certified installation team has more than 30 years of experience in construction and knows how to design your system to suit your home and needs.
Cost of Radon Mitigation
The cost of radon reduction methods that will be most effective for your home will depend on your foundation, the level of radon that needs to be reduced, and how you would like the system to be routed. In the event your home has a combination of foundation types, several radon mitigation techniques may be required to achieve acceptable indoor radon levels.
Basement or slab-on-grade foundation:
Radon levels in these homes are most often best reduced using sub-slab depressurization (SSD) also called sub-slab suction. It is achieved by creating one or more suction pits under the concrete slab. A suction pit is a bowl-shaped pit under the concrete floor created by coring a hole through the concrete and removing soil from the pit. This serves as a suction point for radon-laden soil gases to be pulled from as soon as the vent pipe is sealed in place.
A crawlspace is a shallow, unfinished area under the first floor of a home. Typically, a crawlspace has a dirt floor and can be a major source of radon entry into your home. Radon levels in these homes are most often best reduced using sub-membrane depressurization (SMD) also called sub-membrane suction.
It is achieved by sealing the dirt floor of the crawlspace with a plastic radon barrier and installing a perforated pipe under the barrier to serve as the suction point.
Components of a radon reduction system
Vent pipe is a PVC pipe routed from the suction point(s) to the outdoors. Code requires the vent pipe must exhaust at least 10 feet above the ground and one foot above the roof. It must also be two feet above any window within 10 feet to prevent radon reentry into the home through a window.
The vent pipe can be routed: From the suction point(s) into the house attic and out through the roof, or from the suction point(s) into the garage attic and out through the roof or from the suction point(s) out through an exterior wall, and up the exterior of the house past roof.
Exterior pipe routes are usually less expensive to install but are not recommended in cold climates due to the possibility of the system freezing. This can happen when the warm, humid air being drawn through the mitigation system comes in contact with the cold vent pipe and forms condensation. This condensation can then freeze and build up a layer of ice that can close off the vent pipe. Fan damage can occur when the ice melts and falls into the fan. An insulated vent pipe is an option that minimizes this possibility.
Radon fans are in-line fans mounted to the vent pipe. The fan provides the suction necessary to draw soil gasses from underneath the slab at the suction point(s) and must be located in an unconditioned area such as an attic or outdoors. Fans located in the attic must have an outlet within six feet. Fans outside must be hardwired into a weatherproof switchable box.
In addition to installing the radon mitigation system and components, our team of installers will seal any accessible cracks and gaps as needed. Sealing cracks or openings in the concrete floor, around pipes etc. can improve radon mitigation results.
Radon mitigation contractors
Contact Radon Defense at (703) 688-3797 or use our Book Appointment feature here on our website. Our radon mitigation professionals will then schedule a time to visit your home and discuss your options.
Once the best mitigation route is determined we will provide you with a quote. If you would like the system installed, we will get you scheduled. Typically, systems can be installed within a few days of the order depending on fan stock.
Most radon mitigation systems can be completed in one working day with minimal disruption, so call today!